December 24, 2009

Swai Not?

It's pretty rare for me to walk into my grocery store and see something I've never heard of before. So yesterday, when I was purchasing Salmon for Xmas Eve dinner and I saw a fish called Swai (pronunciation rhymes with "why"), I said to myself: "Swai not??" The fish boy said that it was similar to a Dover Sole (which is not actually my favorite),but I told him to wrap me up a couple of filets and went home to play!

First, my two large filets came to the stunning total of $1.91. No that's not a typo, under $2. And the two filets were the perfect size for Mr. Vino and myself. After a little research (Thank you Google!), I discovered that Swai is also called Iridescent Shark. But Swai is really a type of catfish native to Southeast Asia.

I've been trying very hard to eat sustainably. My guide to seafood is the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch (http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx). Normally fish from Southeast Asian are not considered sustainable, but they list the Swai as a good substitute and sustainably harvested.

Evidently Swai is starting to become quite popular with consumers wanting to add fish to their diet, but not able to afford the astonishing $19.99/lb that Halibut or Swordfish are currently getting. There were a number of interesting recipes available online, but I decided on an old favorite: Meuniere.

I spritzed my non-stick skillet with my olive oil mister, dredged the Swai in flour (then shook it off really well), sprinkled it with salt and pepper and sauteed it for 3 minutes on each side, then removed it to the oven to keep warm. I browned 1T of butter in the sautee pan, then added a bit of shallot and the juice of a lemon. Plated the fish and drizzled the sauce over the top (a little meunier sauce goes a looonnng way). Time elapsed to prepare dinner: 10 minutes.

Let me just say that I am now a Swai convert. Catfish can frequently have a "muddy" taste to them. The Swai was the least "fishy" fish I have EVER tasted. But it was the consistency I fell in love with. The Swai was the consistency of a perfectly prepared omelete.

At $1.99/lb, Swai is my new "go-to" fish. Go to your fish market and tell your fish guy "Swai not??" You will be so glad you did. Next up, Swai poached in miso broth over udon and/or Swai dredged in seasoned cornmeal and baked with Mrs. Vino's lowfat Cole Slaw.

And, if you go to your supermarket and see something you've never seen before, BUY IT! If you can't figure out what to do with it, call Mrs. Vino at the tasting room and we'll figure it out together!

December 1, 2009

Rich's Caponata

Many of you know that cooking wasn't my mother's passion. But my father came from a long line of wonderful cooks. In fact, it's impossible for me to remember my father without thinking of food.

Because he was a typical 50's dad, he didn't end up in the kitchen much when we were kids, but he was the ultimate hunter/gatherer. He loved his vegetable garden - he grew the largest zucchini in town (I was 21 before I realized zucchini were only supposed to be 4-5" long, not the 24-36" size he loved). He was an avid fisherman. I was introduced to clamming in Pismo Beach at a very early age!

Dad always told my mother that he was going to take over all cooking duties when he retired - something my mother completely supported. And he started collecting recipes from many different sources. He always told me he was going to write a cookbook for my brother, my sisters and me. Dad was absolutely in love with bizarre ingredients. Today, he'd rival Andrew Zimmern and have his own show on the cooking or travel channels.

Unfortunately, Dad never made it to retirement. A few months after his passing, when we were putting away some of his belongings, I found his file of recipes. I laughed and cried my way through his folder of "Hot recipes from Sumatra" and his folder on "Tripe and other organ meats." That year, I compiled the cookbook he was never able to complete and gave it to my family. "Rich's Recipes" was a huge hit, although I don't think my siblings actually prepared many of the recipes in there. Me? I take after my dad. I worked my way through most of "Tripe and other organ meats," but I did put my foot down on the Sumatran recipes.

Here is one of my favorites from his cookbook: Eggplant Caponata. Miss you, Dad.

RICH'S CAPONATA Pair with Morovino Syrah (or '99 Zinfandel)

2 medium eggplant, stems trimmed
2 medium zucchini, ends trimmed
2 large red, yellow or green bell peppers
1 large onion
2 large ripe plum tomatoes, seeded
½ c. red wine vinegar
2 t. sugar
1 bay leaf
½ c. green olives stuffed with sundried tomatoes (or other green or black olive-stuffed is better)
¼ c. olive oil
1 ½ t. salt
1 bulb garlic, cloves peeled, but whole
1 large bulb fennel (optional, but it really adds to the dish)


Fire up the oven to 400 degrees and let it preheat. Cut eggplant into 1” cubes. Place in a colander with 1 ½ t. salt. Let stand for 20 minutes to draw off the liquid, rinse lightly, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Cut zucchini into 1” cubes. Cut red pepper into 1” cubes (notice a trend here?). Cut the fennel into (say it with me) 1” dice. Cut the onion into large dice. Place all cut veggies into an 11 x 17” roasting pan

In a blender, food processor or big measuring cup with your stick blender, whirl the tomatoes, vinegar and sugar until smooth. Add the tomato mixture, the olives, the garlic and the bay leaf to the veggies. Drizzle on the olive oil and stir well to coat.

Put the roasting pan with the veggies et. al. Into the oven. Pop your favorite movie into the DVD player, cuz these guys are gonna roast for 90 minutes to 2 hours. Stir every half an hour or so – when you get up to get a glass of wine! The caponata is ready when the veggies are very soft and most of the liquid is evaporated. Add a bit of salt and pepper to taste.

You can make this dish ahead – cover and chill it for up to a week. How to use it?? As an appetizer with garlic toast (ummmmm). As a vegetable, either warm, chilled or room temperature. Or, in my classic family tradition, spread a big dollop between two pieces of rye bread, top with Asiago cheese and eat it as a sandwich!

November 4, 2009

Traditional End of Crush Song

Now that the Harvest & Crush are over, it's time to sing the traditional "end of harvest" song. For Morovino, this is sung to the tune of 16 Tons by Tennessee Ernie Ford.

Chorus:

You press 15 tons and what do you get A little bit tipsy and deeper in debt Saint Peter don't you call me, Cuz I can't go! I'm making wine for Morovino.

There's a flat bed comin' Better step aside Takin' 6 one-ton bins of grapes for a ride Load into the crusher, No, we don't use no toes! When we're makin' wine for Morovino!

I need 16 barrels of the finest French oak, oh la la they are pricey, and that aint no joke On a slow boat from France, Will they get here, oh no! I need them in time to make Morovino

It takes 18 months to make it taste fine But lord I can't wait so I head to the wine And I pull a taste of our great Dolcetto Now I'm tasting wine at Morovino!

I'm taaaaaassssstting wiiiiiiiiineee
At More O Vee No!

Click on the title of the post to view the Picasa album of the Barbera crush!

October 12, 2009

I am in love with wine.

Don't get me wrong. I always LOVE wine. But today, I am IN LOVE with wine as well. Today, we started fermentation of our 2009 Dolcetto. The grape juices have been sitting in a big fermenter: all the skin, seeds and pulp. At this point it is called the must. It's not wine yet. It's not even really grape juice. It's like a big, crunchy smoothie. But today we added the yeast that will begin to turn this smoothie into wine.

I wish everyone who loves wine could have a chance to taste through the entire process. The Dolcetto grapes came in warmed by the sun. You place a Dolcetto grape in your mouth and feel it's smooth roundness. The grape bursts between your teeth with sweetness that flows across your palate like warm silk. This is followed by a surprising tingle at the back of your tongue as you crunch the grapeseed and feel the soft nibble of tannin.

As the Dolcetto juice rests with its seeds and skins, the flavors intensify. This is one of my favorite times: tasting the potential. Today, the juice of the Dolcetto tastes like fragrant rose buds and violets on a cool spring morning. The juice is chilled satin sliding across my palate. The color is deep amethyst. It is so beautiful. So fresh. So delicate. I feel almost sad to add yeast and change this perfectly beautiful flavor.

Today, I also tasted our 2009 Pinot Grigio. The Pinot Grigio's journey from grape to wine is nearly complete. I remember last year at this time, tasting the bold, brash pear and pineapple. This year's vintage tastes like crisp green apples and smooth, warm Brie. I celebrate the fact that I can still taste the beautiful Pinot Grigio grapes in the wine.

This morning, totally immersed in wine (OK, physically, I was only partially immersed), I realized I was IN LOVE with wine. The call to the senses. The fixation with the process. The nervous flutter about how it will all turn out.

Yes, today was a good day.

September 19, 2009

Second Chance Cuisine

I've got a confession to make. I really dislike "leftovers." Mr. Vino is also not a big fan. And when I talk about "leftovers" what I mean is the exact same meal you had yesterday, nuked in the microwave until it is unrecognizable, then dumped on a plate and served molten hot around the edges and cold in the middle. Yuck.

Leftovers. Left. Over. Left over from what? Why didn't someone want them in the first place. Then it occurred to me. All leftovers need is a good marketing campaign. And, Mrs. Vino is just the person to give it to them. It's a simple image problem. So allow me to introduce the new image program for leftovers: Second Chance Cuisine.

Second Chance Cuisine is a repurposing of last night's dinner. Last night's spaghetti bolognese becomes Italian Surprise - like shepherd's pie, only not. Take your spaghetti bolognese and put it in a baking dish. Add a little red wine so it doesn't dry out. A few more fresh herbs. Slice zucchini very thinly and overlap the slices over the top of the baking dish to cover (like the mashed potatoes on a shepherd's pie). Then top it all with a mix of Asiago and Swiss cheese and bake it until the cheese is brown, the zucchini soft and the spaghetti bubbly. For a first try at repurposed leftovers, it was pretty good. Even Mr. Vino liked it (note, he was VERY suspicious at first when I explained my repurposing concept).

I've gotten better at repurposing leftovers since then. In fact, last night's dinner was truly worthy of the Second Chance Cuisine label. So here is my recipe for Second Chance Flank Steak with Gazpacho Salad. (Note that this also works really well with repurposed chicken breasts, repurposed shrimp or repurposed salmon filets.)

Second Chance Flank Steak
12 slices of leftover flank steak (hopefully a bit on the rare side)
3 handfuls of fresh spinach leaves (or 1/2 bag of spinach) washed
1 large ear of raw corn
2 medium garden tomatoes
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 clove garlic, cut in half lengthwise
a pinch of red pepper flake
Tomato Ginger Salad Dressing (recipe follows


Remove the corn from the cob. Yes, Mrs. Vino knows that's a messy task. Try getting a large bowl, a sharp pairing knife and a coffee cup. Put the coffe cup in the bowl with the bottom facing up. Place the top, pointy end of the corn on the bottom of the cup and hold the broader end of the corn cob. Use the knife to carefully slice the corn off the cob. It should fall into the bowl instead of scattering all around your kitchen! Cut the tomatoes in half and give them a squeeze to remove some of the seeds. Then dice them up. Put them in the bowl with the corn, cucumber and garlic. Add 4T of dressing, or to taste and toss.

Steam the spinach over boiling water to which you've added the red pepper flake and split garlic clove. Microwave it if you must, but I really like steamed fresh spinach. Microwave the flank steak (yes, the microwave is good for some things) for 1 minute until warm.

To plate: Put half the spinach on the plate, top with half the salad. Top with half the flank steak. Drizzle with a bit of the remaining dressing. Absolutely. Fabulous. (and relatively healthy)

Tomato-Ginger Salad Dressing
(I use this for sauce, for salads, for dip, it's healthy and yummy)
1 large tomato, seeds squeezed out, roughly chopped
1/4 c. oil packed sundried tomatoes (you don't need the oil, just the tomatoes)
2 T minced ginger (or to taste)
2 cloves of garlic
2T balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup water
Salt & Pepper to taste


Put it all in your blender and let it run til pureed smooth. Will hold for a week in your fridge.

August 28, 2009

"Braised Cucumbers are a Revelation!"

Let's face it, we all come to adulthood with food issues that are unresolved from our childhood. Mrs. Vino is no different. I hate cucumbers.

They are bitter, slimy, watery and gross - at least that's what I thought as a child. And, I'll confess that my opinion hasn't changed much since then. Not even when faced with a Martini made with cucumbers and basil (at Chiopinot in SLO)did I relent.

Please understand that Mrs. Vino LOVES vegetables. Since I have been getting my Cal Poly Organic Farm Harvest Box, I have embraced Kale. I have a crush on Kohlrabi. I now call Collard greens my friends. But in the last two harvest boxes, I received a veritable cornucopia of cucumbers and I have remained . . . cool. . . towards them.

So, when I was watching Julie & Julia (AWESOME MOVIE) and Amy Adams exclaimed "Braised Cucumbers are a revelation!" I said quietly to myself "you have GOT to be kidding." In my opinion the only thing worse than a raw cucumber was a slimy cooked cucumber. Gro--ooo---ooo--se.

But Mrs. Vino is always advising you to "taste outside the box" and it was time to take a dose of her own medicine. I couldn't seem to give away my veggie drawer full of cukes. And, I certainly couldn't throw away good vegetables (not even cucumbers). So I decided to see if Braised Cucumbers are, in fact, a revelation.

Turns out they are.

I started with Julia Child's recipe for Concombres au Beurre (OK, they are actually BAKED cucumbers). I had several different varieties of cucumbers in my drawer, but I decided not to discriminate. I seeded them all and hacked them all into 1" pieces. My entire kitchen smelled like the cucumber room spray from Bath and Body Works (why anyone would want their rooms to smell like cucumbers is beyond me). Not off to a good start. I soaked the cukes in vinegar, salt and sugar for an hour and things got a little better. The vinegar really tones down the cucumber smell.

But the real revelation came when the cucumbers started to cook. First, you toss the cukes with melted butter (this IS a Julia Child recipe, after all). Then stick them in the oven at 375 for an hour. Who on earth would put cucumbers in a 375 degree oven for an hour. They should have ended up as slimy little bits stuck to the bottom of the baking dish.

They didn't.

About 15 minutes into the cooking, Mr. Vino came into the kitchen to find out what the heavenly smell was. The cucumbers smelled AMAZING. I couldn't believe it. When I brought them to the table, I was still slightly skeptical. These were CUCUMBERS, after all. At the first taste, Mr. Vino and I both sighed heavily. Heavenly. Rich. Silky. Not at all bitter or slimy. Buttery (of course). Firm to the tooth. Between the two of us, we ate the whole dish (that was 6 cucumbers between the two of us).

Just goes to show you, there are no absolutes when it comes to anything having to do with food. That's why our moms tell us: Try it. You don't have to eat it if you don't like it, but you do have to try it.

So today I challenge you to try something you think you hate, but haven't tasted in a while. And, I'll eat my own words (along with the baked cucumbers): Cucumbers are NOT gross (at least not always).

Concombre au Beurre (Mastering the Art of French Cooking) 6 cucumbers about 8" long
2 T white vinegar
1 1/2 t. salt
pinch of sugar
3 T melted butter (we miss you, Julia)
1/2 t. of dill or basil (I used dill)
3 minced green onions
Pepper to taste


Peel the cukes, cut themin half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Cut into strips that are about 1" x 2". I cut mine lengthwise into 4 strips, then into 2" pieces. Toss the cucumbers in a bowl with vinegar, salt and sugar and let them stand for 30 minutes to an hour. Drain them and dry them with a towel.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Put the cukes in a baking dish with the butter, herbs,onions and pepper. Set, uncovered, in the middle of the preheated oven for 1 hour--stirring or tossing 2 or 3 times during the couse of cooking. Cucumbers are done when they are just starting to have a hint of brown color, and they are tender with still a touch of crispness.

July 27, 2009

Becoming Mrs. Vino

It is a source of some amazement to me that the simple act of cleaning out a cabinet can be as meaningful as an archaeological dig.

On a recent evening Mr. Vino foolishly opened my recipe cabinet. Yes, cabinet. Not box, not folder, not drawer. I have an entire kitchen cabinet (3 shelves) devoted to my love of cooking. The majority of the contents of these 3 shelves came tumbling out on top of Mr. Vino that evening. Cleaning out the recipe cabinet was on my list of things to do. Looking at Mr. Vino’s expression, cleaning out the cabinet quickly moved to my list of things to do . . . . tomorrow.

Excavating through the cook books, recipes handwritten on post-it notes (Mrs. Vino’s favorite storage tool), and all my other sources of culinary inspiration was a journey through time. I found the cookbook I put together for my sisters, the Christmas after my father passed away. Dad got his love of cooking from his mother and her mother before her, but he had a particular fondness for HIGHLY UNUSUAL ingredients. To this day, I don’t think any of my sisters have made his recipe for Sumatran Spicy Tripe.

Digging deeper, I found the recipes from my weight loss period (note to self, bring those out and start using them). In order to lose 65 lbs in 6 months, I taught myself to cook in an entirely new way. Weight loss, I discovered, is simple math. You have to burn more than you take in. And, when you cook, adding more of the higher-calorie ingredients does not always make a better end result.

In the very back corner of the middle shelf, I found my mother’s recipe box. My mother was an absolutely amazing woman. Ten years after her passing, I still miss her each and every day. Cooking wasn’t her passion, it was her chore. I had completely forgotten that she had a recipe box. I hadn’t seen it or opened it since we cleaned up her possessions so many years ago.

It was made of gray metal; small, solid and cool in my hand. Completely innocuous. Really more of an office product than a kitchen tool. As I opened the box, I smelled pepper, lemon and cinnamon. The recipe cards had yellowed and some had crumbled around the edges. Unlike most of the recipes in my Recipe Cabinet, where EVERY book and Post-It is covered with my notes, none of the recipes in her box were written in her own hand.

Mom’s recipe box is most closely tied to my memories of the holidays. As the holidays approached, Mom, my sisters and I would all gather around the recipe box to decide what cookies to put in the holiday gift packages we prepared for teachers, family and friends. Amazingly enough, every year we made the same confections: Bourbon Balls and Sugared Walnuts. Looking through the recipe box now, I realize why. Bourbon Balls and Sugared Walnuts are the only confection recipes in the collection.

My mother’s passion wasn’t cooking. Her passion was her children. But every recipe she prepared was filled with love. I may have inherited my love of cooking from my grandmother and great-grandmother. But from my mother I learned that no matter how simple a dish, if it is made with love, it is nourishing.

With love from my mom and me, here is her classic recipe for Bourbon balls updated to be used with Mezzanotte di Morovino (chocolate port) or other dessert wine.

Mezzanotte Bon-Bons
1 1/2 cups pecans, finely chopped (or use the pecans that are already chopped fine)
1 1/4 cups finely crushed (about 1 dozen) Chinese almond cookies (or Vanilla Wafer Cookies--about 16)
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/4 cup Mezzanotte di Morovino or other fortified dessert wine
Additional ½ cup powdered sugar, for rolling the balls in when finished

Don’t wait for the holidays to make these amazing bon-bons. Toast your pecans by putting them in a non-stick pan over medium-high heat. You can toast them whole, or chopped--if they are chopped, KEEP YOUR EYE ON THEM, they will toast really quickly. Continually move the skillet back and forth over the burner like you were making Jiffy Pop (for those of you old enough to remember Jiffy Pop). You can tell when the nuts are toasted by smell, more than appearance. They will start to smell a bit like popcorn too. When they start to smell toasted, pour them out of the pan onto a plate and let them cool.

Pulse the cooled pecans in your food processor to finely chop (if you are using whole pecans). Put pecans in bowl, then place cookies in your food processor to crush. Put the cookie crumbs in the bowl, too. Add the first ½ cup powdered sugar and cocoa powder and stir to combine. Add the corn syrup and the Mezzanotte and stir well. Chill the mixture for 10-15 minutes (if you are making these on a cold day, this may not be necessary).

Use a teaspoon to help you make 1” balls. You are going to roll the balls in the second ½ cup of powdered sugar, so put the second ½ cup of powdered sugar on a plate or in a pie tin. I use the dry hand/wet hand technique. I roll the balls (kind of sticky) in my left hand, then put them on the plate with the powdered sugar. Use your right hand (dry hand) to roll the balls in the powdered sugar, then place them on a piece of waxed paper.

Once the balls have all been made, put them in an airtight container and store in the fridge. These are waaaayyyyy better if made several days in advance. The flavors mingle and get happy!

July 10, 2009

Living Locavore

Last week, I opened a magazine and read an article that changed the way I think about food. I picked up the excellent CCM “Diner” publication and learned about a movement called “Locavore.” Added to the dictionary in 2007, a Locavore is someone who eats a significant portion of his or her diet from local food sources. It’s good for the planet. It’s good for your health. And, it’s good for your budget.

Think about it, it makes total sense. Why should I go to my local grocery store and pay for tomatoes that were picked green and shipped 1500 miles to me? You know that as a consumer, we are paying those transit costs. Instead, why wouldn’t I go to my local Farmer’s Market and buy tomatoes that were picked yesterday and shipped from . . . Nipomo. It was a complete “a-ha” moment for me.

And, the universe continued to point me in the Locavore direction when an article in the newspaper the next morning mentioned that the Cal Poly Organic Farm’s Community Supported Agriculture program was accepting memberships for the summer/fall season. If you are unfamiliar with the Cal Poly Org Farm’s CSA program, you can pick up a box of fresh, seasonal organic produce at Cal Poly or one of several convenient locations in San Luis Obispo.

Mrs. Vino knows that when the universe consistently points you in a direction, you should follow. So I signed up for the CPOF program. Last week I picked up my first harvest box. The day was sunny. As Mr. Vino put the box into the backseat of the car, the scent of warm, earthy fields filled the vehicle. Heaven. Mr. Vino was driving and I was craning my neck trying to see what miraculous gifts I had been given. Seriously, it was just like Christmas. With vegetables.

As I danced up the stairs to the kitchen, I was already giddy. For me, this was like an episode of Iron Chef San Luis Obispo. Who knew what bold and subtle flavors I would be exploring. Carrots. YUM. Beets. AWESOME. Basil. YEE HAW, IT’S PESTO TIME. Kohlrabi. HUH??? Kale. OK, YOU CAN’T WIN EVERY TIME.

It was late and we started simply. The main course that night was roasted chicken, so I just boiled the carrots and the tiny little taters that were in the box. OK, I haven’t had a garden-grown carrot since my teenage years, when I used to help my dad in his vegetable garden (he had a fondness for “unusual” vegetables, that’s how I knew what the Kohlrabi was). The simple boiled carrot and potato were proof that La Vida Locavore is delicious. Sweet. Earthy. Creamy. Incredible in it’s simple, clean flavors.

I’ve got to think it’s easier to live La Vida Locavore on the Central Coast in summer than say . . . In Chicago in the middle of winter. And local proteins are a bit harder to find than local vegetables, so living Locavore might mean living, at least partially, vegetarian. (Sorry, Mr. Vino.)

So stay tuned and see how living Locavore progresses. Including next week’s blog with the recipe for Kohlrabi. It’s excellent with anchovy, garlic and olive oil. But then, isn’t everything.

Cheers!
Andrea Bradford

For more information: CCM/Diner (http://www.centralcoastmag.com/html/guides/wine_dine/locavore/index.html)
Edible, San Luis Obispo (http://www.ediblecommunities.com/sanluisobispo/)

June 18, 2009

Morovino Goes for Gold

Mrs. Vino got some very special news this week. Her first vintage as winemaker (2008 Morovino Pinot Grigio) received a gold medal in the prestigious Orange County Fair Wine Competition. When I saw the envelope in the mailbox, I immediately ripped it open. Several tourists with cameras caught the enthusiastic happy dance in the post office parking lot, accompanied by incredibly loud whoop-whooping. Let’s hope it the video never ends up on You-Tube. I believe the Post Office is getting a restraining order against Mrs. Vino. Let’s just say I was pretty happy.

Wine Awards are an interesting thing. I’m sure that no matter what the quality of a wine, you could probably find an award competition that would give it a medal. Winemakers believe that awards mean a great deal to consumers. That’s why we enter the competitions. But wine drinkers should be careful. Just because you see a bit of shiny gold in association with a bottle does not necessarily mean it is the bottle for you.

Most of the recognized, well-reputed, prestigious competitions award medals based on a familiar 100 point system. A wine will receive a bronze medal if it is in the 85-90ish point range. A Silver medal is in the 90-95ish point range, a gold is in the 95-100ish point range and double gold, platinum, titanium, best of show, etc., are the best of the best.

I think, in large part, the value of the medal equates to the number of wines entered in the competition. In the Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition, more than 3,000 California wines were entered. Last year’s California State Fair Wine Competition also had more than 3,000 entries. The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (another prestigious competition) received more than 4,700 entries in 2009. Wines awarded medals at these uber-contests are probably of a different quality than say the “Made-Up-CityName Wine Competition” which has 100 entries.

It’s a classic case of Caveat Emptor--let the buyer beware. Before you decide to buy a wine based on whether it won a medal or not, whip out your iPhone and check out that particular competition online. Better yet do a bit of research right now to find out which competitions are the most recognized within the industry. Armed with that knowledge, you will know that a Double Titanium Medal from the “Made-Up-CityName Wine Competition” may not necessarily mean a quality wine in the bottle.

Granted, medals must mean something! Even after two days, Mrs. Vino is still spontaneously bursting into laughter in the tasting room. Or sometimes, she is bursting into tears. I understand that the award means that a panel of 10ish people thought the wine was really good. I know that I think the wine is really good. I know that all the guests in our tasting room think the wine is really good. I know the opinion of 10ish people shouldn‘t matter that much. But some days, you just want to dance around the tasting room with a medal hanging around your neck.

Cheers! Mrs. Vino

Here are some competitions to get you started:
Orange County Fair Wine Competition (www.ocws.org)
Mid State Fair (www.midstatefair.com)
San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (www.winejudging.com)
California State Fair Wine Competition (www.thebestcaliforniawine.com)
Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition (www.fairplex.com/wine2009)
National Women's Wine Competition--1800 entries (www.nwwc.com)

June 12, 2009

Mrs. Vino Uncorked

Recently I visited my local wine shop to pick up one of my favorite bottles of wine. I was heartbroken to see that the winemaker had made the change from cork to screw top. As a wine professional, I have my preferred position in the cork-vs.-screw top debate. We won’t be re-examining that argument here. Instead, I have a very visceral reason to prefer wines with corks to wines with screw top closures.

I completely understand that a screw top wine is easier and more convenient. I recognize that 97% of wine is consumed within three days of purchase. But wine is more than just a beverage.

Wine is a celebration. Big: A birthday. A promotion. A special dinner out. Small: Friday. Wednesday. A new lipstick. A great pizza. All green lights on the ride home. In these challenging economic times, wine is a small luxury that helps us celebrate both large milestones and tiny daily victories.

For me, opening a bottle of wine involves a ritual that is a call to the senses. Take a bottle of white wine out of the cooler. Notice how the light reflects off the glass? The bottle is heavy and cool in your hand. It has substance. Weight. Importance. As the bottle reaches the kitchen counter, it begins to sweat. Each perfect droplet beads on the outside of the bottle. The bottle becomes jeweled by the little droplets.

Do you peel the capsule quickly or slowly. Some days, I prefer slowly. On these days, removing the foil is an unveiling. A tease. Somedays, I prefer quickly. I can almost taste the wine as I open the bottle and can’t wait for the first perfect sip. On these days, removing the foil is like kicking off your high heels the second you walk in your front door after a hard day at work.

Do you feel just the tiniest bit bad as the worm of the opener pierces the cork? The rhythm of the corkscrew against the cork is like music. As the opener begins to remove the cork from the bottle, the music builds. And, the crescendo? When the cork is freed from the bottle with that perfect POP, I can only smile. That is the signal for my taste buds to begin tingling in anticipation.

Try as I might, I cannot create a ritual that involves unscrewing a cap. That is the same process I use for my toothpaste every morning. So frequently in life we get mired in the day-to-day and forget to lift our heads and celebrate what we can. I think that now, this is more important than ever. So, for now, I remain uncorked.

Cheers!
Mrs. Vino

June 4, 2009

What wine pairs with whales?

Last night, Mr. Vino asked me: "What wine pairs with whale?" No, we haven't discovered a VERY unusual sushi. We spent an absolutely perfect Central Coast evening watching whales from our Pismo Beach balcony.

Memorial Day is typically the time the Humpback whales come back into San Luis Bay with their babies on their way to Alaska to feed. According to Cal Poly's Marine Biology department, an unusually strong wind event in April, combined with a short spell of very warm weather in May created an unusual upwelling along our coast. The result is that cold nutrient-rich water was brought to the surface, providing a fantastic buffet meal for marine plankton. When the plankton are happy, the anchovies are happy. When the anchovies are happy, the Humpbacks are happy. When the Humpbacks are happy, they dance and play in the bay waters, making Mr. & Mrs. Vino very happy!

OK, dance and play is a total anthropomorphism. When the Humpbacks breach, it's actually a feeding behavior. But watching these incredible giants of the ocean slap the water with their flippers and their flukes, and leap out of the ocean, getting 85% of their 40-ton bulk out of the water--well, I think we can be forgiven the "play" metaphor.

When the whales come to the surface, they exhale. Mr. Vino calls this a whale puff. It is, in every way, better than a crab puff (and Mrs. Vino LOVES crab puffs). And I just can't help the fact that watching a Humpback slap a 12 foot long flipper against the water looks an awful lot like a friendly wave and an invitation to come play!

It's a humbling experience to sit on your balcony at sunset watching a mother Humpback in a side-by-side breach with her baby. At sunset, the light turns the whales' bellies molten gold. The spray from the breach is like liquid light. Watching momma and baby is such an incredible reminder that we are stewards of this planet and this ocean, not owners.

Ultimately, we discovered that the best wine to pair with whales is . . . any wine. I enjoyed a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio. David sipped on Sangiovese. As the sun dipped beyond the horizon and the sky turned fuschia, then gray, then blue; the whales went back to the ocean bed to sleep. Mr. Vino and I were moved to a spontaneous standing ovation for an incredible performance.

Learn more about our incredible Humpback Whales at the Cetacean Society:
http://www.acsonline.org/factpack/humpback.htm

May 31, 2009

Comfort Food and Wine

A few weeks ago, Mr. Vino and I took a drive to Canada to visit his parents. Along the way, I had a revelation about how I pair food and wine.

I have spent much of my life exploring new flavors in food and wine, in search of the holy grail: the perfect food and wine pairing. I confess, I might be becoming that which I most hate--a food and wine snob.

The trip to Canada was a blast from the past for me. When I was a tiny Vino-child, my family took a number of vacation trips to Shasta, Lassen, Redding and Yreka. I hadn't revisted those areas at all in my adult life. On the long car drive (Mr. Vino is NOT a fan of airplanes), I shared with him all the funny stories from my childhood trips. It made me both happy and sad, and left me with an incredible, teary, open-hearted feeling.

On our first night, we made it to Yreka. It wasn't really a destination--while Mrs. Vino generally likes her vacation trips well planned, in this case we were just winging it. If you haven't tried it, it's a very liberating experience. It was late, and there weren't many places still open. We ended up dining at a restaurant called Grandma's House. I opened the door and walked into my past. While I don't believe I ever ate here as a child, it was EXACTLY like the family-style diners that were favored by my large family.

It's really hard for Mrs. Vino to describe. The feeling of warm connection to the past. The feeling of familiar, inviting, reassuring "comfort" that is the definition of comfort food. There were no Buddha Hands on the menu. Grandma's House doesn't serve Duck Confit. We asked our incredibly perky (in a good way) waitress for a wine list. She pointed to the menu: Chablis, Rose or Burgundy--glass, half-carafe or full carafe.

We chose a half-carafe of Chablis for $8.

I turned my attention to the menu and promptly burst into tears. The waitress came back, concerned. Mr. Vino told her not to worry, that I occasionally get like this.

At the top of the entree menu was Mrs. Vino's pre-eminent comfort food: Liver and Onions. Not veal liver with apple reduction and Peruvian potatoes. Grilled. Liver. And Onions. (OK, a side of steamed broccoli).

When I was growing up, my mother and I shared a love for liver and onions. No one else in my family could stand them. In those days, moms didn't make multiple meals to accomodate their kid's palates (at least Mama Vino didn't), so we never served this meal at home. But every time my family went out to dine for a special occasion, at a restaurant EXACTLY like Grandma's House in Yreka, my mother and I ordered liver and onions. It was a ritual we shared. After my sisters and brother moved out of Mama Vino's house and Papa Vino passed away, I would regularly visit my mother and we'd make Liver and Onions together. I haven't had Liver and Onions since her passing 10 years ago.

The Liver and Onions and half-carafe of Chablis that I enjoyed at Grandma's House was the most perfect meal I have ever eaten and the best food and wine pairing I have ever made. It was seasoned by funny memories and served warm and comforting. In some ways, the meal changed how I define a good pairing. Yes, I will always continue to search for flavors that entwine on the tongue to create memorable experiences. But I also have a new appreciation for a food and wine pairing that just makes you feel good.

It was good to remember that the ultimate food and wine pairing doesn't come from a restaurant, or even from your own kitchen. The best food and wine pairings come from the heart. I have a new appreciation for visitors to the Morovino tasting room that ask "what wine pairs with hot dogs, cuz we are barbecuing on the beach with the kids." Those visitors are creating their very own comfort food and wine pairing today, and for the future.

I encourage you all to revisit your own personal Liver and Onions and Chablis pairing today.

Cheers! Mrs. Vino

April 27, 2009

Flavors and aromas in wine.

Here's a question I get frequently in the Morovino tasting room. "Mrs. Vino, your tasting notes say that I may taste black pepper in this wine. Is there actual pepper in it?" The answer is "no." When a wine label or tasting room attendant says that you might taste or smell black pepper (or cherries, or truffles, or earth, or spices), there probably AREN'T those things present in the wine. Instead, the combination of the grape, the type of barrel, the yeast used to ferment the wine and the magic of the winemaker bring flavors or aromas similar to black pepper or cherries or earth to the wine. You can only taste 5 things: Sweet, sour, bitter, salty or Umami (more on that in another post). but you can smell an infinite number of things. A newly mown lawn. A crisp green apple. Even though you are "tasting" the wine in your mouth, you are actually smelling it!! When we sip wine and slurp it a little (Mrs. Vino calls that the ugly sip--usually accompanied by a slurping noise and a chewing motion), we are adding oxygen to the wine in our mouth. The wine molecules vaporize and enter your sinus cavity through the rear of your mouth (yes, Mrs. Vino knows that sounds gross). You are actually smelling the wine at this point. (Mrs. Vino calls that "smell/taste.") Depending on the type of wine grape and the art of the winemaker and the age of the wine, the wine might "smell/taste" like tart red cherries (Morovino Sangiovese is a great example) or even dried plum (Morovino '99 Zinfandel). Everyone's palate is different. Anything you "smell/taste" in a wine is valid. Sesame seeds. Espresso. That great patchouli candle you had in 1972. But certain wines do exhibit consistent and classic "smell/tastes" (like Sangiovese and red cherries). Tasting notes are a great start when experiencing wines, but your experience of the wine is just as important. Remember, if you like a wine--it's a good wine. If you don't like a wine--it's just not a good wine for you. If a wine smells like wet newspapers--then it's truly bad and you should send it back. Cheers! Mrs. Vino

To Breathe. Or Not to Breathe.

You come home, kick off your shoes and turn off your cell phone. You are ready to sit back, relax and enjoy a nice glass of wine. A nice red would suit you just fine. You pop the cork and are faced with the age-old wine dilemma: to breathe or not to breathe. Is it hype? Is it hooey? Does wine really need to breathe? Last week in the tasting room, one of our guests asked me to explain the contradiction that exposure to air helps wine open up, but exposure to air can also cause wine to spoil. It is my belief that ALL red wines--premium, medium or daily drinker--can benefit from a little oxygenation. Some whites may benefit from aeration, but that’s another post. Haven’t we all had the experience of having a glass of an affordable daily drinker that was good, but having a second glass that was excellent. Were our taste buds dulled by the first glass? The chances are that because the bottle had been exposed to a bit of air, the flavors of the wine could more fully develop. Allowing a wine to breathe can help it to open up and reveal its finest qualities. Aromas become more intense and more varied. Tanins, alcohol and herbal characteristics can soften and smooth out. Allowing oxygen into a recently opened bottle of wine changes its chemical composition in ways that scientists are still trying to analyze. But there you are in your stocking feet, ready to relax, really, really wanting a glass of wine--do you really need to decant and leave the wine to breathe for an hour, maybe two? There are several really great ways to let a wine breathe. Some take more time than others. The cheapest, easiest way to let a wine breathe is to pop the cork and let the bottle sit on your counter for an hour. Unfortunately, trying to get air into the wine through that tiny little bottle neck is not particularly effective. A more effective way to do this is to decant your wine. Decanters don’t need to be expensive. Mrs. Vino’s favorite decanter cost $4.00 at Cost Plus World Market! You do want a decanter that has a fairly large opening. Pop the cork on your bottle and pour the wine into the decanter. Allow it to splash against the sides. Almost any red will benefit from at least an hour in a decanter. Feel free to swirl the wine around in the decanter a few times as you are waiting! But hold on! Is there such a thing as too much decanting? And should every wine be decanted? Yes. And No. One to two hours of decanting is sufficient for most wines. More than that and you risk losing all the subtlety in the wine. And really delicate Pinot Noirs should never be decanted. The best way is to check the progress of the wine as it is decanting by smell, or by small tastes. "But Mrs. Vino," you say. "I want my wine, now!" If you are willing to make a tiny investment, there are some excellent solutions to oxygenating wine right away. You have probably heard about the Vinturi--it’s an aerator that you hold over your wine glass and pour wine through. It is an excellent tool and it is available in most wineries or wine shops for about $40. They are lovely to look at and feel good in your hand. It’s hardy and should last you years. In Mrs. Vino’s home, however, we use the Selection decanting pourer by Menu. Why this instead of a Vinturi? Simple. Mrs. Vino is a klutz. She can never manage to pour wine through the Vinturi without spilling it. The Selection sits firmly in the top of a bottle and all you need to do is pour through it. You don’t need two hands. It doesn’t drip. We have used the Selection at home for nearly 5 years and it does an EXCELLENT job of aerating wine. We’ve been trying to find a distributor for three years--and we finally found an importer. The Selection is available in the tasting room for $19.95. Come on in and taste-test it. Now occasionally Mr. Vino threatens to give a wine mouth-to-mouth resuscitation by sticking a straw in the bottle and blowing bubbles. This might be a little too much oxygen. But hey, each to his own. I’ll let him give it a try and let you know how it works! Cheers! Mrs. Vino

Pairing Wine & Cheese

Recently, I read an article by a food journalist that said that you should never serve wine and cheese together. Is he nuts???!?!!!

First of all, never say never when it comes to food and wine. Second, wine and cheese is a classic combination, and, frankly, one of life's pleasures! There are as many suggestions for pairing wines and cheeses as there are palates! Morovino wines (cool climate grapes, you know) or other slightly acidic wines are particularly suited to cheese pairings. The acidity helps cut through the buttery, creamy flavor of the cheese—letting you experience the flavor of the wine as well as the creaminess of the cheese.

When pairing cheese and wines, remember that cheese is generally oil based and wine is water based. As we all recall from high school chemistry or cooking, oil and water don't always mix. So, start with a nibble of cheese give it a couple of good chews and experience the texture and flavors. Add a sip of wine and chew together to let the flavors mingle in your mouth. When it's good, it's great.

To experience the not-so-great aspect of cheese and wine pairings, try a heavily tannic wine like a REALLY big Cabernet or Zin with a very bold Blue Cheese. Sometimes you have to try the bad to know just how good the good is!

Ultimately, let your palate be your guide. If you like a cheese and a wine together, it's a good pairing—at least for you. But here are some tips to help you get started.

Think geographically! The wine of a particular region usually pairs well with cheeses of that region. Think Sangiovese with aged Parmesan or Asiago. Creamy cheeses need a more acidic wine to cut through the buttery flavors. Think Pinot Grigio with Brie or Camembert or Mild Monterey Jack. Hard cheeses stand up to more tannic wines. Think Cheddar and Zinfandel. Opposites attract! Try sweeter wines with stronger cheeses. Think Cosa Dolce or Reisling or Port with Stilton, Gorgonzola or Blue. Pair strong wines with strong cheeses. One of my favorite pairings is a full-bodied Cabernet with a nutty, full-flavored Swiss--Mrs. Vino knows this sounds crazy, but try it!

Our suggested pairings:
Wasabi Cheddar with Cosa Dolce (contrasting flavor) or Zin (complimentary flavor)
Gouda with Pinot Grigio or Sangiovese (acidic to cut through creaminess)
Smoked Cheddar Morovino ‘98 or ‘99 Barbera (smoky goes with smoky)
Chipotle Jack with Zinfandel (spicy with spicy)
Swiss with Cabernet
Cheddar with Malbec (mild with mild)


Cheese and wine pairing parties are super easy and fun! Do this for your next Girls' Night Out or family get together.

Cheers!
Mrs. Vino

Pairing Food and Wine.

Many people have asked us about pairing wines with food. While Mrs. Vino will never say "no" to a good glass of wine by itself, sometimes a food and wine pairing can be transcendent! Ultimately, if you enjoy the taste of a wine and food together, that’s a good pairing for you! But, there are some pairings that can elevate a food and a wine to something almost magical! Here are some tips on pairing foods with wine, and some common wine pairings. High Tannin Wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Bold Zinfandels and Merlots, Syrah, for example)
  • Make a food taste less sweet.
  • Can taste bitter if paired with a food that is salty.
  • Can be too astringent with hot, spicy foods.
  • Are a great pairing with foods that have high protein or are fatty—like steak and cheese.

Sweeter Wines (Riesling, White Zinfandel, some inexpensive whites)

  • Will taste less sweet and more fruity when paired with salty foods.
  • Make salty foods taste less salty.
  • Make hot, spicy foods less spicy.
  • Go well with sweet foods—it’s better if the wine is sweeter than the food you are serving it with.

Acidic Wines (Pinot Grigio, dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc)

  • Taste less acidic when paired with salty foods or slightly sweet foods.
  • Will make salty foods taste slightly saltier.
  • Can complement an oily or fatty flavor in foods.
  • Can be overwhelmed by heavy, rich foods.

The principle of complementary flavors says that food and wine with similar flavor characteristics go together. If a dish has mushrooms, an earthy wine like Morovino ’99 Merlot would be a good complement as it also has very earthy flavor. If a dish has citrus in it, an acidic wine like Morovino ’06 Pinot Grigio is a good match.

The principle of contrasting flavors says that opposites can be a good thing! A simple disk like broiled lamb chops pairs well with a complex wine like Morovino Tango. A hot, spicy dish pairs well with a sweeter wine like Morovino Cosa Dolce.

Here are some common food and wine pairings to help you start experimenting!

Oysters and Chablis or Chardonnay Lamb with Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah Salmon with Pinot Noir Grilled fish with Pinot Grigio Sushi with Cosa Dolce (Had to say it, it’s the best pairing ever!) Grilled Chicken with Gamay Beaujolais Cheese Fondue with Gewurztraminer Mushrooms, Herbs and Dishes with Onion and Garlic with Merlot (fruit forward) Grilled dishes, like Grilled Veggies and Polenta with Merlot (mature) Ethnic Cuisines (like Mexican) with Medium to Full Bodied Red Zinfandels Barbecue with Smoky, Rich, Softer Red Zinfandels

One more quick tip. If you end up with a less-than-excellent bottle of red wine (which would NEVER be a bottle of Morovino), the best way to try and save it is to chill it a bit. Give it 20ish minutes in the fridge. Cooling the wine will frequently help tone down any “over-achieving” flavor characteristics like tannin or oak. However, if the wine smells like wet cardboard or newspaper, or bitter like fallen leaves, DO NOT DRINK IT. Then you have a truly bad wine. Any reputable wine store or winery will take this back and replace it.

Cheers! Mrs. Vino